The Ancient Palace of the Heart near Dali

11-29-2010 [Xizhou Village, Yunnan Province, China]

The Ancient Palace of Heart 

"Anything is one of a million paths. Therefore you must always keep in mind that a path is only a path; if you feel you should not follow it, you must not stay with it under any conditions. To have such clarity you must lead a disciplined life. Only then will you know that any path is only a path and there is no affront, to oneself or to others, in dropping it if that is what your heart tells you to do. But your decision to keep on the path or to leave it must be free of fear or ambition. I warn you. Look at every path closely and deliberately. Try it as many times as you think necessary. This question is one that only a very old man asks. Does this path have a heart? All paths are the same: they lead nowhere. They are paths going through the bush, or into the bush. In my own life I could say I have traversed long long paths, but I am not anywhere. Does this path have a heart? If it does, the path is good; if it doesn't, it is of no use."

~~~"The Teachings of Don Juan," Carlos Castaneda

I've arrived at the Linden Centre on Thanksgiving Eve - to join the delicious feast with the Lindens - Jeanie, Brian and their two boys and their lively team - and have immediately felt embraced by the family. The famous Yang Pin Xiang estate that is now the Linden Centre was the most soulful setting to have a Thanksgiving...it did take me a while to pull up my jaw to its original position, as I was saw taken with the ornate ancient design of the building - the Bai architecture at its finest. I felt like I was in one of the kung-fu movies and there would be a Bruce Li at full swing flying through one of the wide courtyards at any moment. All of it was witnessed by the classic Bai granulated blue ceiling throughout the Centre.

The amazing part is that with the extensive rennovation that the Lindens did on the estate, the ancient spirit and ornate decore remained intact, yet, the modern comforts were built in seamlessly. The trapezoidal dining room let in the light through an enormous glass ceiling. We were surrounded by antique Chinese art of exquisite taste built into the walls. 

It is as though the modern life fit neatly into the crevaces of the ancient beauty. The rooms turned out to be extremely comfortable - with tall windows, wooden floors and an ancient asian bell decorating the monolithic ancient-Bai-style desk. 

The Centre is ever-evolving - with new cultural programs [such as calligraphy lessons, martial arts, Asian cuisine cooking classes - just to name a few] constantly being added to the already expanded menu of options the guests are presented with. The decorum changes, as Brian gets new ideas about the home, the colours change, fireplaces arise where none were before, always aiming at keeping the Centre alive and interesting as well as making it more sustainable by incorporating the eco-friendly technology [which in this part of China is no small achievement]. 

What I love so much about this project is that it so elegantly paves the way for a rennovation/restoration wave in China that is so prone to demolishing its cultural heritage in favour of the newer, glitzier, yet tacky modern developments that have neither character nor history behind them. With Brian's ever-expanding imagination, a spot is already skoped out in the mountains nearby for the first eco-lodge in the area to be built on a gorgeous meadow. The man does not sleep - he is a true Fountainhead, if I've ever seen one. Watching him in action has inspired me.

The heart of the home is his warm and knowledgeable wife, Jeanee. She is a wealth of in-depth information on the local culture and customs, which she shares caringly with the inquiring guests. Another aspect - especially for a 5 * accommodation - that makes the Centre so unusual is the gentle individual attention that Jeanee and Brian pay to each guest, making it a deeply personal experience. I have not expected to find a family away from home, yet did with them. I felt so lovingly included! My soul rested here - in comfort and warmth of their welcome. 

I loved biking around the area - especially to the magnificent Er Hai lake - and to get lost many a time in the local villages....which is, of course, a part of the fun. I've been given much insightful advice by Anthony and Martha, who are both world travelers and live at the Centre as part of the Linden team, both American yet fluent in Chinese [like Brian and Jeanee], and who caringly show the guests ways to explore the local area.

I was touched by how hard the whole team works to integrate into the village - through various outreach programs in teaching the local kids English and contributing in many other ways. In contrast with many Western developments in China that attempt to contrast themselves with the surroundings, the vision of these people is to be a part of their community in every way they can be.

If you are coming to the area and are looking for a one-of-a-kind experience, I would wholeheartedly suggest coming to the Linden Centre - even if to gaze upon its remarkable collection of ancient art and to meet Brian and Jeanee. They are true gems who live their Heart Path to the fullest, and I feel fortunate that my path has led me to them. No such thing as coincidence, in the words of the Kung-Fu Panda :)!